Wednesday, January 30, 2013
Naturalization step 2
Monday, January 28, 2013
My guide for office productivity
Those who work with me a lot noticed that my response times to mail is very fast, and that I seem to never miss an Email. I do feel that the practices I adopted and developed for handling Email are worth getting to know, so here they are.
Thursday, January 24, 2013
Fingerprinting for naturalization
Thursday, November 29, 2012
The practical guide to AGT (Americas Got Talent) auditions
Friday, December 2, 2011
The perfect case for an eBook Reader

The process of creating this is rather simple, and not very time consuming. Here are the steps!
1. Get a book that is the right size and thickness for a 7” reader. You can probably find one by browsing your neighborhood store or the nearest Barnes and Noble store. I felt the most suitable was Beowulf: http://amazon.com/o/asin/1593083831 It’s somewhat ironic to use buy a B&N book from Amazon, not to mention using it to store a Kindle, but perhaps it’s the best one BECAUSE it’s so ironic! The book can used or new for less than 5$.
2. Stick the pages together. This is done with simple paper glue. You should separate the front cover from the rest so it doesn’t stick – just stick some plastic bag between them, or some other plastic sheet.

3. Mix half a tea-spoon of paper glue (like Elmers) with water in a 1:1 ratio. The purpose is to have the glue very thin so it soaks into the paper.

4. Using a brush or a sponge, coat the side of the book with glue generously. We want the glue to soak into the paper, so they all stick together to form a hard edge.

5. Put some weight on the book so the pages don’t deform, and leave to dry for half an hour or so, or until it seems dry and hard.
6. Repeat with another layer of glue, or even two layers, if you have the time.
7. Remove the plastic, and place your ebook on the book’s first page. Mark out around it with a pen.
8. Using a metal ruler and a snap knife, cut through the pages. Be careful not to cut too deep (you don’t want to go through the back cover!). The tricky part is the corners, because when you cut from top to bottom, the angle of the knife prevents it from penetrating through more than a few layers at the bottom corner. To make it better, rotate the book occasionally and “fix” the bad corners.
9. Do this in steps, pulling out a few pages to reveal the pages below them, until you reach the bottom cover. Again, be gentle with the pressure to avoid cutting through the bottom cover. Also, be careful with the knife, as snap-knives tend to snap if you put too much pressure on them. This should still take no more than 10 minutes.
10. Check that the reader fits nicely inside the book. If it does, use the same technique as described in steps 2-5, but from the inside of the hole in the book. This is not absolutely required, but would serve to make the whole thing more stable.
Congratulations! The same technique would be useful to hide a flask of Whiskey in a book (preferably an Ernest Hemmingway book) or a pistol in a copy of "War and Peace"!
Saturday, February 6, 2010
Backup outlook using Volume Shadow Copy
Shadow Copy (a.k.a Volume Snapshot Service or VSS for short), is a Windows feature that can access files even when they are locked. It has many great uses, and this time I want to talk about backing up outlook. When outlook is running, it locks the PST files it uses, making them impossible to backup. One workaround is to close outlook before the backup, but that has several disadvantages, and may be hard to automate. Many backup utilities use shadow copy to help, but what if you don’t want to spend money? As usual, I’m here to help.
To use Shadow Copy, you would need a little utility called VSHADOW. I wish I could offer it as a direct download from here, but unfortunately, you’ll have to download the Windows SDK for that. It’s quite a hefty download – an ISO image that is over 1 GB long and takes FOREVER to install. Once you’re done with that, go to c:\program files\Microsoft SDKs\Windows\v6.1\Bin\vsstools and find VSHADOW.EXE there. It would be a 226K file – run it once to make sure it displays the right version – 3.0:
Copy this file to somewhere safe, and you may now uninstall the SDK to save on some disk space (approx 1.3 GB to be exact). If you had some virtual machine to do this install on, even better.
To actually make a backup, you need to perform 4 steps:
1. Use Vshadow to create a “snapshot” – this captures a drive the way it is at a certain point of time.
2. Mount the snapshot as another drive
3. Copy the files from the newly mounted drive to somewhere else (the backup destination).
4. Erase the snapshot.
Erasing the snapshot at the end is not really critical – you can leave it there for eternity, but since it’s frozen in time, there isn’t much point in making another backup from it in the future. You can mount multiple snapshots, but you’ll run out of drive-letters pretty fast.
To be more technical, here’s what you do:
1. Open a CMD prompt, which must have Administrative privileges.
2. Go to where you saved VSHADOW.EXE, and run the following command. If the files you want to backup are on a drive other than C, substitute it’s letter with c:
Vshadow –nw –p c:
3. On the output of this command, note the line that says SNAPSHOT ID:
If you get an error message like “Access denied”, that means you are not an administrator, or that you have ran your CMD not as an administrator.
4. Run the following command to map the drive letter, using the proper snapshot ID. You can use any letter you want, if J is already in use:
vshadow.exe -el={57b7248c-e086-46fc-848d-f449fb4c0ae3},j:
5. Now, use your favorite file copy method to copy any files you want from that temporary drive to anywhere else. I use ROBOCOPY and copy to my external USB drive, but you can do anything you want, really.
6. Once done with the file copy, use this command to un-mount the temporary drive and delete the snapshot. This does NOT do anything to the original files – just gets rid of the shadow copy and frees up the drive letter and system resources. Note that we are using the same snapshot ID as before:
vshadow.exe -ds={57b7248c-e086-46fc-848d-f449fb4c0ae3}
7. That’s it! Now you are ready to do this again tomorrow.
As you may or may not know, I don’t like to do so many things manually, so I wrote a VBScript to do the same as above, automatically. I use the WScript.Shell object and its RUN method to execute the various commands, and VBScript’s INSTR to find the snapshot ID. Other than that, the script is pretty straightforward:
| 'Create the Objects set oWshell = CreateObject("WScript.Shell") set oFSO = CreateObject("Scripting.FileSystemObject") 'Create the snapshot oWshell.run "%COMSPEC% /C c:\vshadow -nw -p d: >c:\vshadow.txt", 0, TRUE 'Read the output and find the Snapshot ID set oFile = oFSO.openTextFile("c:\vshadow.txt", 1, TRUE) sOutput=oFile.readall oFile.close sSnapshotID=mid(sOutput,instr(sOutput,"SNAPSHOT ID")+14,38) 'Mount the Drive wshell.run "%COMSPEC% /C c:\vshadow -el=" & sSnapshotID & ",j:", 0, TRUE 'Copy the files. Note that I'm using double-quotes because the path has a space in it wshell.run "%COMSPEC% /C c:\Robocopy ""j:\My Documents"" ""x:\My Documents"" *.pst", 0, TRUE 'Destroy the snapshot wshell.run "%COMSPEC% /C c:\vshadow -ds=" & sSnapshotID, 0, TRUE |
You may adjust the script for different drive letters and folders. That’s it! Now, just use the Windows Task Scheduler to run this daily, and you’re done!
Saturday, January 16, 2010
Pick it up
The basic technique is to simple use force – the plastic notches will come undone if you apply enough force to them, although some of them might break. Before going there, remove any screws that are in place, and inspect the back well to make sure there are no screws hiding under a warrenty sticker, or under the monitor’s leg. Then, place the screen on a table with the screen itself pointing upward, and the “top” of the screen facing you.
With your fingertips (of both hands), grab the plastic panel of the top part and try to slide your fingers underneath it, while pulling towards you. There will be resistance, often significant one, but with enough force, the frame will open. The hard part is to find the right balance so as to not break the LCD panel, so you might want to practice on a screen that you care less about. If you are not an experienced guitarist, expect some finger pain after this process.
Once the top comes open, slide your fingers a bit more inwards, and then slide them sideways towards the corners, still applying force, to open the notches that are in the corner, and then keep sliding along the sides towards the bottom of the screen. A typical screen has about 10-15 clasps along the frame, and they will snap open one by one. The snaps that are along the bottom part of the frame should be the easiest to open, as you should have most of the frame loose by now, and can apply a lot of leverage easily. Note that the monitor’s button panel is usually part of the front-frame, and wired to the main body, so be careful not to rip these wires or panel off when you open the panel. Most monitors’ internal body is separate from the plastic frame, and once you pop it open, the main body will come out easily, but be careful still – in some cases, the main body is connected with screws to the front or back frame, and you need to be careful not to break those.
If applying force, as described in paragraph 3 does not work, or you are very concerned about keeping the monitor in pristine condition, another technique is to pry the snaps open with a wedge. The problem is that the frame is usually soft plastic, so if you apply a screwdriver to it, it will cause very ugly damage. The right way to do it is use a plastic wedge. I recommend using a thick guitar pick – get a bunch of them – at least 3, and don’t get the expensive kind. This procedure might destroy them.
Take one pick, and push it between the front and back frame as much as you can, about 1 inch to the left or right of the middle of the frame (the middle point itself would probably have a snap, so you can push anything in there). The pick will separate the frames a bit, so now you can push another one next to it. Now, slide the 2nd pick sideways towards the corner, and the pressure will pop-open the snaps without causing any damage. You might have to experiment with several picks until you find ideal ones – some might be too soft to force the screen open, and others might be too thick to easily insert between the panels.